Fryingpan Drainage - Chapter 5

Marten Creek -- Chap. 5 Section 4

Remote and untraveled...

Route 5.4.1 Peak 505 (Peak 12,653)

Climb rating: Harder skins, easier boots Ski rating: Advanced, S3+ Recommended seasons: Spring snow season Starting elevation: 10,000 feet Summit elevation: 12,653 feet Elevation gain: 2,653 feet Round trip distance: 4 miles Day trip? Yes Map: Southern Fryingpan, North Photo: [none supplied]

You won't see any crowds on this mountain. Here are our details: Start from parking at the end of Road 505 (see section 2 introduction). Ski to 10,350 feet in Marten Creek. Follow the creekbed on a good snow year, or the pack trail if the creek is open. At avalanche runout at 10,350 feet, climb from creek to right. With good snow, you can crampon up the steep avalanche path. For a more mellow route, head several hundred vertical feet up an avy path, then take a climbing traverse N (small amount of bushwhacking) to an open rocky area which leads up to a low-angled section of 505's northeast ridge (11,600 feet). Climb through sparse timberline conifers on the northeast ridge, enjoy a steep pitch just past timberline, and stick with the ridge as the angle drops and the summit soon appears. Cornices may form in both directions off this ridge, so plan your route with care-especially in poor visibility.

You can ski back down the ridge. With stable snow, two lines on the North Face tempt expert skiers who might be getting their info here at The easier line takes the east side of the face near the ascent ridge. For an extreme descent, drop from the summit, work to skier's left, and take a couloir that avoids the cliffy area in the middle of the lower face. It would be prudent to climb this route before skiing it. There might be a few good lines dropping W from the summit into Granite Creek. Skiing the bowl S then SE from the summit might be excellent.

Route 5.4.2 Mount Boddington West Side (updated by Lou 5-2011)

Climb rating: Harder skins, Advanced snow climb
Ski rating: Advanced, D System II D6 R1
Recommended seasons: Spring snow season
Starting elevation: 10,000 feet, Summit elevation: 13,212 feet Elevation gain: 3,212 feet
Round trip distance: 6 miles Day trip? Yes
Map: Southern Fryingpan, North

This peak is named after Bill Boddington, 10th Mountain Division veteran who was instrumental in the development of the 10th Mountain Division Huts. You can't miss it. When you're driving up Road 505 just take your eyes off the road for a moment and look up; Boddington is the ragged arete that resembles a dagger thrust from the planet's crust.

Start from the end of Road 505 and head up Marten Creek about 2 miles to 10,600 feet. Leave the valley here and take a relentless climb up the west flank of Mount Boddington, eventually reaching a saddle between the twin summits. The northern summit may require technical rock climbing for the last few hundred feet, while the south summit is where most climbs end. Extreme skiers and riders will notice a number of outstanding couloirs dropping from Boddington to the north and east. Given a good recon and the proper snow conditions, these are worth exploring. The standard ski route takes the western reaches of the peak.